TACOLICIOUS

Tacolicious is at 2031 Chestnut St. @ Fillmore.  You may remember this location as Laiola, one of the few truly Spanish restaurants in the Bay Area, with a specialty in creative and traditional tapas, the delightful Iberian ‘small plates’. For whatever reason, the owner decided to change that winning concept in favor of a tacqueria, but one much different from those abounding in the Mission. Here the tacos are small, universally soft and greaseless, their fillings sometimes standard, often not.

For example, in choosing Traditional Carnitas you’d have shredded grilled beef, of course, but you’d the quality of the meat above-average, as you would the savory, fresh-tasting sauce. But you’d be more surprised by Shot-and-a-Beer Braised Petaluma Chicken, not only by the concept but by the carefully pulled lean chicken bathed in a vibrant sauce evocative of the title. And there’s nothing everyday about a taco enclosing Artichoke, Potato, Mushrooms, Green Garlic or another featuring Guajillo Braised Beef Short Rib, the meat a bit les than ideally lean when we tried it, but the smoky, lightly tart character of the comparatively uncommon chile was clearly evident. All tacos are $3.50 each or 4 for $12, with the exception of Filet Mignon, Caramelized Onions ($6.50) or the ‘Taco of the Week’, on one occasion Traditional Chile Verde ($3.75), lean cubes of pork in an admirable green sauce with a crunch grace note of shredded cabbage.