CHIAROSCURO

Chiaroscuro is the Italian restaurant of your dreams, but unfortunately located in the deep Financial District, that being 550 Washington, at Sansome. But you really must go, because the Italian chef/owner is creating the most exciting food in town. It's CHIAROSCURO, after the Italian painting style, but there's nothing shady about the Carpaccio di Filetto, graced with great olive oil and shaved Parmesan, surely the best version I've ever had, most carpaccios ruined by meat less than tender and too thickly sliced. And you must not miss Gnochetti, green and sparkling from arugala rather than spinach. Halibut hereabouts is mostly from southern California, but nothing compares to this chef's fresh Alaskan product, the cool waters telling the whole tale. She lightly poaches the fish, finishes it in the oven and creates a masterpiece. The dessert of choice is clearly Sfogliata di Frutta, which brings you a baked-off puff pastry shell topped with sliced seasonal fruits. A masterpiece.