MARENGO

Marengo, a new second-floor space at 1980 Union St. (441-2775; open Tues-Sun for dinner, plus Sunday brunch) specializes in sliders, those two- or three-bite sandwiches on mini burger buns which have been dotting local menus for some months now. But I don't know of another place which makes them the focal point of the menu. Marengo offers eight options (all $3.95) and occasional daily specials, and those I've tried augur well for the others. Black & Blue brings 'Luck Dog Ranch' beef topped with 'Roaring 40's' blue cheese, crisp Molinari pancetta and sliced tomato--a delight. Two other sliders contrast nicely: The Jerk has strips of jerk-seasoned chicken with a feta/sesame spread and Teleme cheese, while Porky's features pulled lean pork in a Memphis-style sauce (which means more of a vinegar edge than a tomatoey base), a blue cheese-cider vinaigrette and a garnish of zesty cole slaw. Familiar composed salads round out the menu. Wine, as one might expect, are on the younger and simpler side, but well selected, and there is a pleasing array of beers. Marengo is a pleasantly unique and informal addition to the roster of Marina dining choices.